If you are a homeowner in Abilene, Fort Worth, or Wichita Falls, you know the struggle. You water your lawn faithfully, mow it regularly, and still those stubborn weeds keep popping up. One week your yard looks decent, and the next it is dotted with dandelions, overrun with crabgrass, or invaded by nutsedge spikes that grow faster than your grass ever could.

Understanding which weeds you are dealing with, and knowing your control options both DIY and professional, can help you reclaim your lawn. In this guide, we walk you through the most common lawn weeds in the area, show you how to identify them, share practical DIY methods, and help you understand when it is time to call in the pros.

Why Weeds Thrive in This Region

Climate and Soil Conditions

Abilene, Fort Worth, and Wichita Falls experience a modified subtropical climate with scorching summers, relatively mild winters, and unpredictable rainfall. This extended growing season gives weeds more opportunities to establish themselves year-round. Feast-or-famine precipitation patterns stress your grass while weeds with deep taproots or aggressive root systems thrive under the same conditions.

Cool-season weeds like henbit and chickweed flourish during our mild winters, while warm-season invaders like crabgrass and spurge dominate summer months. Essentially, something is always trying to take over your lawn.

Soil Challenges

Our region is known for heavy clay soil that compacts easily, restricting grass root growth while many weed species have evolved to penetrate these tough conditions. Soils tend toward alkaline pH levels, typically 7.5 to 8.5, which many common weeds tolerate or even prefer. Poor drainage creates wet pockets that moisture-loving weeds like nutsedge colonize rapidly. Urban development and construction activity further disturb soil and open gaps for invasive species to establish.

Understanding Weed Types

Broadleaf vs. Grassy Weeds

Broadleaf weeds like dandelions and clover have wide, flat leaves with visible veins. They stand out visually from your grass and can be killed with selective herbicides that leave your turf unharmed. Grassy weeds like crabgrass and dallisgrass blend in with your lawn until they grow taller or develop distinctive seed heads. They require different herbicides than broadleaf control, so correct identification matters.

Annual vs. Perennial Weeds

Annual weeds complete their life cycle in one year. Summer annuals like crabgrass emerge in spring and die with frost. Winter annuals like henbit sprout in fall and die in late spring. The key to controlling annuals is preventing them from producing seeds. One crabgrass plant can generate 150,000 seeds, ensuring next year’s problems if left unchecked.

Perennial weeds live for multiple years and resprout each spring from persistent root systems. Dandelions, nutsedge, and dallisgrass are perennials. Killing visible growth is not enough. You must destroy their root systems for lasting control.

Sedges: The Grass Imposters

Sedges like nutsedge look like grass but belong to a completely different plant family. You can identify them by their triangular stems (remember: “sedges have edges”) and shinier, more waxy appearance than true grasses. Sedges do not respond to typical grass or broadleaf herbicides and require specialized products, which is why proper identification before treatment is so important.

The Most Common Lawn Weeds

Crabgrass

Crabgrass tops every Texas homeowner’s most-hated list. This summer annual germinates when soil temperatures reach 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit, typically late March through April. It grows in a spreading, crab-like pattern with light green to yellowish color that contrasts sharply with your darker turf. Seed heads have 3 to 6 finger-like spikes. Each plant can produce up to 150,000 seeds before dying with the first frost, virtually guaranteeing next year’s invasion if left untreated.

Dandelion

Everyone recognizes dandelions, but beneath the cheerful yellow flower lies a formidable opponent. Dandelions develop taproots that extend 10 to 15 inches into the soil, making them incredibly drought-tolerant. Break off the top and the root simply regenerates new growth. Each fluffy seed head contains dozens of seeds that disperse widely on the wind, colonizing new areas rapidly throughout the growing season.

Nutsedge

Nutsedge is perhaps the most frustrating weed homeowners in this region face. It grows faster than your lawn and reproduces through underground tubers called nutlets that form on rhizomes. A single plant can produce hundreds of these tubers, each capable of generating new plants. Pull one nutsedge plant and you may have dozens more waiting to sprout from those same underground tubers. It thrives in wet, poorly drained areas but adapts to a wide range of conditions once established.

Henbit

Henbit is a winter annual that emerges in fall and grows through winter into spring. Recognized by its square stems, rounded leaves that clasp the stem, and small purple-pink flowers, henbit forms dense mats that can smother grass in thin lawn areas. It is particularly problematic in Bermuda grass lawns during winter dormancy when the brown grass provides no competition.

Dallisgrass

Dallisgrass is a perennial grassy weed that grows in distinctive clumps with coarse texture and a light green color that contrasts sharply with finer-textured turf. Its seed heads consist of 3 to 5 branches radiating from the stem top. It develops deep, tough root systems that make hand removal extremely difficult. The plant spreads through seeds and short rhizomes, gradually expanding its clumps and forming new ones nearby.

Spurge

Both spotted spurge and prostrate spurge invade area lawns as summer annuals, forming dense mats rapidly through the hottest months. Small, oval leaves grow on reddish stems, and a milky white sap is released when stems are broken (note: this sap can irritate skin). Spurge thrives in hot, dry, compacted soil, making it especially problematic along sidewalks, driveways, and any thin turf areas.

Sandbur

Sandbur, also called grass burrs or stickers, is a summer annual that produces seed heads covered in sharp, painful spines that easily penetrate skin, paws, and thin-soled shoes. Before producing burrs, it looks like a low-growing grass with thin, pointed leaves. Each plant can produce hundreds of burrs that attach to clothing, pets, shoes, and tires, spreading seeds far and wide throughout the season.

DIY Weed Control Methods

Build a Weed-Resistant Lawn

Your best defense against weeds is a thick, healthy lawn that leaves no room for invaders. Key cultural practices include:

• Mowing height: Maintain 2.5 to 4 inches for St. Augustine grass and 1 to 2 inches for Bermuda grass. Taller grass shades the soil and prevents weed seed germination.
• Watering: Water deeply but infrequently, about 1 inch per week including rainfall. Deep watering encourages deep root growth and discourages shallow-rooted weeds.
• Fertilization: Apply fertilizer during active growth in late spring through early fall for warm-season grasses. Avoid fertilizing during dormancy or extreme heat stress.
• Core aeration: Aerate annually in late spring to relieve soil compaction, improve water infiltration, and help grass roots grow deeper.
• Overseeding: Fill thin areas before weeds can colonize them. Dense turf is your ultimate long-term prevention strategy.

Pre-Emergent Herbicides

Pre-emergent herbicides prevent weed seeds from germinating by creating a chemical barrier in the soil. For summer annuals like crabgrass, apply in late February through early March, before soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees Fahrenheit. For winter annuals like henbit, apply in September through early October. Products containing dithiopyr, prodiamine, or pendimethalin are widely available at garden centers.

Important: Pre-emergents prevent all seeds from germinating, including grass seed. Do not overseed for at least 8 to 12 weeks after applying pre-emergent herbicides. Most products also need to be watered in to move the active ingredient into the soil zone where weed seeds germinate.

Post-Emergent Herbicides

Post-emergent herbicides kill weeds that are already growing. Choosing the right product depends on your weed type:

• Broadleaf weeds: Products containing 2,4-D, dicamba, and MCPP are effective against dandelions, clover, and henbit without harming your grass.
• Nutsedge: Requires specialized products containing halosulfuron or sulfentrazone. Standard broadleaf or grassy weed herbicides will not provide effective control.
• Grassy weeds: Control options are limited and highly grass-type specific. Always check labels to confirm the product is safe for your specific turf type.

Application tips for best results:

• Treat young, actively growing weeds for maximum effectiveness.
• Avoid applications when temperatures exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Do not apply before rain. Wait at least 24 hours after treatment before irrigation or rain exposure.
• Do not mow for 24 to 48 hours after application.
• Spot treat rather than broadcast spraying whenever possible to reduce overall chemical use.

Common DIY Mistakes to Avoid

Even well-intentioned homeowners make errors that reduce effectiveness or damage their lawns. Using the wrong product for your weed type is the most common failure. Broadleaf herbicides will not control grassy weeds, and neither will work on nutsedge. Improper timing is another major issue: pre-emergents applied after weeds have already germinated are completely useless. Treating in the wrong weather and expecting instant results also lead homeowners astray. Most herbicides take 7 to 14 days to show full effects, so patience is essential.

Seasonal Weed Control Calendar

Spring (March to May)

Apply pre-emergent by mid-March before soil temperatures reach 55 degrees Fahrenheit to prevent crabgrass and other summer annuals. Treat winter weeds like henbit and chickweed with post-emergent applications in early spring before they produce seeds. Begin regular mowing and apply the first fertilization as grass breaks dormancy.

Summer (June to August)

Spot treat crabgrass, spurge, nutsedge, dallisgrass, and sandbur with appropriate post-emergent products. Avoid herbicide applications during extreme heat above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Raise mowing height slightly to help grass cope with heat stress, and water deeply but infrequently to encourage strong roots.

Fall (September to November)

Apply pre-emergent herbicide in September through early October to prevent winter annual weeds from germinating. Control any remaining summer weeds before they go to seed. Fall is also the ideal time for core aeration, overseeding thin areas, and applying fertilizer to strengthen grass heading into winter.

Winter (December to February)

Treat actively growing cool-season weeds like henbit, chickweed, and annual bluegrass. By late February, begin planning and executing spring pre-emergent applications to stay ahead of summer annual weeds. Avoid mowing dormant Bermuda grass and limit foot traffic on frozen turf.

When to Call a Professional

Signs You Need Professional Help

Despite your best efforts, some weed problems require professional intervention. Consider calling a pro when:

• Weeds return repeatedly even after multiple rounds of treatment.
• Your lawn has a large-scale infestation where weeds outnumber grass.
• You are dealing with difficult weeds like nutsedge or dallisgrass that resist standard consumer products.
• You do not have the time to maintain a consistent year-round treatment program.
• You are unsure about product selection, application rates, or safety procedures.

The Professional Advantage

Professional lawn care companies offer several meaningful advantages over DIY approaches:

• Commercial-grade products that deliver stronger, more consistent results than consumer-grade herbicides.
• Accurate weed species identification and selection of the right treatment the first time.
• Optimal application timing based on soil temperatures, local weather patterns, and weed emergence cycles.
• Guaranteed results with return visits at no extra charge if weeds reappear between scheduled treatments.
• Licensed applicators trained in herbicide safety, environmental regulations, and proper technique.

Cost Comparison: DIY vs. Professional

For an average 5,000 square foot lawn, DIY costs including pre-emergent and post-emergent products, equipment, and your own time can easily reach $400 to $600 annually, not counting failed attempts or wasted product. Professional service typically costs $50 to $100 per application, with 6 to 8 applications per year totaling $400 to $800. When you factor in superior results, professional-grade products, and time savings, the investment in professional service often makes strong financial sense.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to apply pre-emergent herbicide in this area?

For summer annual weeds like crabgrass, apply pre-emergent in late February through mid-March before soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees Fahrenheit. For winter annual weeds like henbit and chickweed, apply in September through early October. Timing is critical: pre-emergents must be in place before weed seeds germinate. Too early and the product may break down before weeds emerge. Too late and weeds have already sprouted.

Why do weeds keep coming back after treatment?

Several factors cause weed return. You may be treating symptoms without addressing the root cause of thin, unhealthy turf that will always allow weeds to invade. You could be using the wrong products for your specific weeds, or your timing may be off. Perennial weeds like dandelions and nutsedge have extensive root systems that survive surface treatments. Your soil also contains a seed bank of thousands of dormant weed seeds waiting to germinate. Effective control requires ongoing management, not one-time treatments.

How do I get rid of nutsedge in my lawn?

Nutsedge requires specialized herbicides containing halosulfuron or sulfentrazone. Apply when nutsedge is actively growing in late spring through summer, targeting young plants. Multiple applications are usually necessary because underground tubers continue producing new plants long after the visible growth is killed. Address any drainage issues that create the wet conditions nutsedge favors, and maintain thick, healthy turf to compete with it. Complete control typically takes 2 to 3 seasons of consistent treatment.

Are there organic weed control options that actually work?

Organic options exist but require realistic expectations. Corn gluten meal acts as a natural pre-emergent but requires precise timing and higher application rates than synthetic products. Horticultural vinegar at 20% acetic acid burns weed foliage but rarely kills roots, so regrowth is common, and it is non-selective, killing any plant it contacts including your grass. The most effective organic approach is building a thick, healthy lawn through proper mowing, watering, fertilization, and aeration so that weeds simply cannot establish.

Let MasterScapes Eliminate the Weeds in Your Lawn

Lawn weeds in Abilene, Fort Worth, and Wichita Falls are not going away on their own. Our region’s climate, soil conditions, and extended growing season create year-round weed pressure that demands consistent management.

Start by correctly identifying your weeds. Build a thick, healthy lawn through proper cultural practices. Apply pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides at the right times and with the right products. Be patient and consistent because weed control is a long-term commitment, not a one-time fix.

If you are spending every weekend fighting weeds with limited results, or dealing with stubborn problems like nutsedge or dallisgrass, professional weed control makes sense. At MasterScapes, we have helped thousands of homeowners across Abilene, Fort Worth, and Wichita Falls win their battles against weeds through customized programs designed specifically for our region’s unique climate and soil challenges.

Ready to reclaim your lawn? Contact MasterScapes today for a free lawn assessment. Let us create a customized weed control program that gives you the beautiful, weed-free lawn you deserve. Your weekends are too valuable to spend pulling weeds. Let us handle it while you enjoy your outdoor space.