My yard looks great! I am very happy with MasterScapes! It has definitely been a happy marriage so far!
-- J.C.
There’s something magical about those first warm days of spring in Texas. The bluebonnets start blooming, the trees bud out, and suddenly, you remember: Oh right, I have a lawn that needs attention. After months of dormancy, your lawn is waking up and ready to grow. The question is: will it wake up as a lush, green oasis, or as a patchy, weed-infested problem you’ll fight all summer long?
Here’s the truth that every Texas homeowner eventually learns: what you do (or don’t do) for your lawn in spring determines everything that follows. Spring lawn care isn’t just about making your yard look good right now, it’s about setting the foundation for a healthy, resilient lawn that can handle our scorching summers and unpredictable weather.
At MasterScapes, we’ve been caring for lawns across Abilene and the Dallas/Fort Worth area since 1992. Over those three decades, we’ve learned exactly what North Texas lawns need to thrive. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about spring lawn care in our region.
Spring is a critical window of opportunity for your lawn. As temperatures start warming up typically in late February through early April your grass is transitioning from dormancy to active growth. This is when your lawn is most receptive to nutrients, when pre-emergent herbicides work their magic, and when proper care delivers the biggest return on investment.
Miss this window, and you’ll spend the rest of the year playing catch-up. Weeds that could have been prevented will take over. Grass that could have developed deep, strong roots will struggle in the summer heat. But with the right timing and techniques, you can set your lawn up for success.
Before diving into care tips, you need to know what’s growing in your yard. Different grasses have different needs, especially in spring.
Bermuda Grass is the most common warm-season grass in our area. It’s heat-loving and tough, but goes dormant in winter. Bermuda needs scalping in late winter, early fertilization, and pre-emergent applications before soil temperatures hit 55°F.
St. Augustine Grass performs better in shade than Bermuda and creates a thick, carpet-like lawn. It should NOT be scalped, maintain a higher mowing height (2.5-3 inches) and use careful fertilization to avoid disease issues.
Zoysia Grass is drought-tolerant, handles shade reasonably well, and requires less mowing than Bermuda. It benefits from moderate fertilization and can be lightly scalped but doesn’t need aggressive cutting.
Tall Fescue is a cool-season grass that stays green through winter. It needs spring fertilization and overseeding but should NOT be scalped. Maintain higher mowing heights (3-4 inches) to help it survive our summers.
Centipede Grass grows horizontally and requires less maintenance. It has lower nutrient needs than other grasses; too much fertilizer actually harms it.
Not sure what grass type you have? The experts at MasterScapes can identify your grass and create a customized care plan during a property visit.
Scalp Warm-Season Grasses
If you have Bermuda or Zoysia, late winter is the time to scalp your lawn, mowing it down to about 1 inch. This removes dead brown grass, allows sunlight to warm the soil faster, and stimulates vigorous spring growth. According to Texas A&M AgriLife Extension, proper scalping significantly improves warm-season lawn health.
Important: Never scalp St. Augustine or cool-season grasses like tall fescue.
First Pre-Emergent Application
Late February to early March is prime time for pre-emergent herbicide. This creates a barrier in the soil preventing weed seeds from germinating. Apply when soil temperatures are around 55°F and before they reach 65°F. In our area, this typically means late February through mid-March.
First Fertilization
Once your warm-season grass shows green growth (soil temperatures around 65°F), it’s time for your first fertilization. This provides nutrients for strong root development and dense growth. Use a balanced fertilizer with a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium).
Begin Regular Mowing
Never remove more than one-third of the grass blade height in a single mowing. Proper mowing heights:
Aerate if Needed
If water puddles on the surface or soil feels rock-hard, spring aeration can help. This removes small soil plugs, allowing air, water, and nutrients to reach grass roots more effectively.
Second Pre-Emergent Application
Apply a second treatment 8-10 weeks after the first (typically mid-to-late April) to maintain weed prevention through summer.
Continue Fertilization
Bermuda and St. Augustine benefit from feeding every 6-8 weeks during the growing season, while Zoysia needs less frequent feeding and Centipede should only be fertilized once or twice yearly.
Monitor for Pests and Diseases
Watch for grubs, chinch bugs, brown patch fungus, and other common issues. Early detection makes treatment easier and more effective.
North Texas lawns need about 1 inch of water per week in spring, including rainfall. But how you apply that water matters just as much as how much.
Water Deeply but Infrequently: Apply that full inch in one or two sessions per week rather than daily light watering. This encourages deep root growth, making grass more drought-tolerant.
Time It Right: Water in early morning (4-10 AM) to allow grass blades to dry before evening, reducing disease risk and minimizing evaporation.
Adjust for Weather: Skip watering after rainfall. Increase frequency during hot, dry spells.
Pre-emergent application can prevent 85-95% of annual weeds, including crabgrass (the #1 lawn weed in North Texas), annual bluegrass, spurge, and goosegrass.
For existing weeds like dandelions, clover, henbit, and dollar weed, post-emergent herbicides are needed. The right product depends on weed type and your grass type some herbicides safe for Bermuda will damage St. Augustine.
Beyond herbicides, maintain thick, healthy grass through proper mowing height, fertilization, and deep watering to naturally crowd out weeds.
Think of fertilization like nutrition. The right amounts at the right times make all the difference. Most North Texas lawns need 3-5 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year, applied in multiple applications.
Slow-release fertilizers provide nutrients gradually over weeks or months, reducing burn risk and providing consistent feeding. For spring, combination products with both quick and slow-release nitrogen work well for immediate greening plus extended feeding.
Your lawn isn’t the only landscape element needing spring attention.
Refresh Mulch: Apply 2-3 inches in flower beds to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and moderate soil temperature. Pull mulch away from plant stems to prevent rot.
Amend Soil: Work compost or organic matter into beds to improve drainage and add nutrients especially important in Texas clay soil.
Control Weeds Early: Use pre-emergents in landscape beds and pull existing weeds before they seed.
Planting Time: Early spring is ideal for bare-root trees, shrubs, and roses. Container plants can be installed throughout spring, giving them months to establish before summer heat.
Prune Wisely: Prune spring-flowering plants (azaleas, forsythia) immediately after blooming. Summer-flowering plants (crape myrtles, vitex, roses) can be pruned in late winter or early spring. Never remove more than one-quarter of a plant’s total growth at once.
Fertilize Trees and Shrubs: Apply balanced, slow-release fertilizer around the drip line and water thoroughly.
Brown Patches: Could be winter desiccation, dog urine, disease, or grub damage. Wait to see if patches green up as temperatures warm. If not, resod or plug those areas.
Slow Green-Up: Verify soil temperatures are consistently above 65°F before expecting warm-season grasses to green up. Consider soil testing for nutrient deficiencies.
Mushrooms: These indicate decomposing organic matter or excessive moisture. They don’t harm your lawn, improve drainage, reduce watering, and they’ll disappear as conditions dry out.
Bare Spots: Often fill in naturally as warm-season grass spreads during the growing season. For persistent bare spots, consider sodding or addressing underlying issues like shade or compaction.
At this point, you’re probably thinking: “This is more complicated than I expected.” You’re right, proper lawn care involves timing, technique, product selection, and ongoing adjustments. This is where MasterScapes comes in.
Expertise You Can Trust: With over 30 years caring for North Texas lawns, we know exactly what products to use, when to apply them, and how to adjust for your specific property.
More Time, Less Stress: Remember our motto: “We Do the Work. All of It, All the Time.” While neighbors spend weekends on lawn care, you can be doing literally anything else.
Consistent Results: We don’t forget applications or skip steps. Our professionals follow a proven, customized schedule ensuring your lawn gets exactly what it needs when it needs it.
Professional Products and Equipment: We have access to professional-grade fertilizers, pre-emergents, and commercial equipment that provide better coverage and longer-lasting results than consumer products.
Comprehensive Service: Need irrigation adjustments? Flower bed refreshing? Tree pruning? We handle everything under one roof, one point of contact, one company you can trust.
When should I scalp my Bermuda grass?
In Abilene, Fort Worth and Wichita Falls, late February through early March is ideal before active growth begins but after hard freeze risk has passed.
Can I apply pre-emergent and fertilizer together?
Yes! Many professional programs use combination products. This saves time and ensures optimal timing for both applications.
What if weeds are already growing?
Pre-emergents only prevent seeds from germinating. For existing weeds, use post-emergent herbicides. Pre-emergent will still help prevent additional weeds.
Should I bag or mulch grass clippings?
Mulching is generally better, clippings return nutrients to soil. However, bag the first few clippings after scalping to remove dead brown grass, then switch to mulching.
How much does professional spring lawn care cost?
Costs vary based on lawn size and services needed. At MasterScapes, we provide clear, upfront estimates with no hidden fees. Many homeowners find professional care costs less than expected when considering time saved and results achieved.
Spring in North Texas is brief but beautiful and it’s your lawn’s most important season. The care your lawn receives in these crucial weeks determines how it looks and performs all summer long.
You can spend your spring weekends scalping, fertilizing, applying pre-emergents, and hoping you’re doing everything right. Or, you can call MasterScapes and let us handle all of it while you enjoy your weekends.
Since 1992, we’ve been cultivating beauty across Abilene and the Dallas/Fort Worth area. We’re fully licensed, bonded, and insured. We respond to all inquiries within 24 hours. And most importantly, we’re committed to giving you a lawn you can be proud of with more time, less stress, and better results.
Contact MasterScapes today to schedule your spring lawn care services. Whether you need one-time spring treatment or comprehensive year-round maintenance, we’re here to help. Let us do the work all of it, all the time while you enjoy the results.
Life’s too short to spend beautiful spring days scalping grass. Let the professionals at MasterScapes handle your lawn care while you cultivate beauty in the rest of your life.
Call us today or visit masterscapes.com to get started. Your best lawn ever is just one phone call away.
330 Bacacita Farms Rd, Abilene, TX 79602
325-313-4986 or Email Us
3524 Bell Dr, Hurst, TX 76053
817-318-7384 or Email Us
2200 Mississippi Ave., Wichita Falls, TX 76301
940-240-2836 or Email Us
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